Building Your Routine: Putting It All Together

We’ve analyzed our skin. We’ve picked our products. Now it’s time to put it all together. Starting your skincare journey with a solid routine is crucial in developing good skincare habits. To end our series, we’ll learn about the importance of each step and just how much product we’re really supposed to be using.

Pre Cleansing and Cleansing

Whether it’s cleansing wipes, bar soap, or maybe just a quick rinse in the shower, these “quick fixes” can actually be doing more harm than good. It may seem obvious, but actual act of cleansing your skin twice daily is one most important part of your skin care routine. So what exactly does it mean to “cleanse” the skin? Cleansing is the act of removing dirt, makeup, and other impurities from the surface of the skin. This step is often broken down into two sub-steps; pre-cleansing and cleansing. Pre-cleansing often is thrown to the side and overlooked but the main reason for it is to assist in breaking up the dirt that will later be removed by the second cleansing step. Pre-cleanse is typically an oil based cleanser but can also be what is called a Micellar Water. When mixed with water, a pre-cleanser will help to lift dirt making it easier to remove. Without pre-cleansing, your “cleanse” will simply just be you moving dirt around on your face.

TO USE, apply a quarter size amount of cleanser to the fingertips and mix with water. Work into the skin then rinse with warm water. Be careful your water is not too hot or too cold; extreme temperatures can dry out the skin. Warm water will open the pores slightly. Cleansing should be done both morning and night, every single day.

Exfoliation

Exfoliation is another name for a resurfacing of the skin. The main purpose of this step is to help remove dead skin cells stuck on the surface and make room for brand new cells. Exfoliation should be done two to three times a week. (More or less depending on your skins’ sensitivity and thickness). Our skin works hardest at night, doing all of its’ maintenance and repairs while we sleep, therefore it’s best to save exfoliating for your nightly routine rather than in the morning. If you exfoliate as part of your morning routine, you may leave your skin more vulnerable to sun damage, dirt, and other environmental pollutants.

There are two different ways to exfoliate; manual exfoliation and chemical exfoliation. Manual involves using a product or machine that provides a physical “scratching” of the skin. For example, a Clarisonic Brush or a product with grit would be considered a manual exfoliant. This type of exfoliation lifts any dead or flaking skin up and removes it from the surface leaving a more even texture. Chemical exfoliation involves using a product that contains a hydroxy acid; either a Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA), or an Alpha Hydorxy Acid (AHA). A hydroxy acid is an acid extracted from natural sources used to speed up the natural exfoliation process. Chemical exfoliation works on a deeper level than manual exfoliation and is known to help reduce scarring left from acne or dark spots from aging or sun damage. As discussed in the previous article “Building A Routine: Picking Your Products”, AHA’s are better for those with dry and sensitive skin while BHA’s are better for those with oily and acneic skin.

Some notes on exfoliation:

·      Over exfoliation can leave the skin vulnerable and damaged

·      If you find your skin is breaking out more now that you’ve started to exfoliate, try only exfoliating once or twice a week.

·      I recommend using both chemical and manual exfoliants. I use a Clarisonic twice a week and a chemical exfoliant once a week.

Toner

Toners are another one of the most important steps in a routine, but they also tend to be the step that’s most often left out.  The main purpose of a toner is to bring the skin’s pH back to a normal range. After cleansing our skin tends to become too alkaline but with the use of a toner, we can bring that back to our skins’ natural acidity of 4.5-5.5. This will help make the skin less vulnerable and also further help in cleansing the skin.

 A lot of the time people will assume toners and astringents are the same thing.  Toners and astringents are very different. A toner is a gentle product used to balance the pH of the skin and add hydration. Astringents are typically made with alcohols and can dry out and irritate the skin. Before society knew better, we thought that alcohols were good for oily skin because they would dry up the excess oil and help get rid of bacteria, but unfortunately that is not the case.  Most alcohols are not actually good for the skin. They can cause dry skin, lead to more breakouts and some types of alcohol (SD Alcohol) have actually been linked to having developmental defects. You can sometimes find astringents that are made without any alcohols and instead are made with natural antiseptic and drying ingredients but if all else fails, just stick with using an alcohol free toner.

TO USE, either spray on in the form of a mist, or pour onto a cotton round and dab into the skin. Use toners both every morning and night.

Photo By Anthony Tran

Serums

If you’re new to skin care, serums may seem like a lot; which is fine. They’re not absolutely necessary if you’re just starting out. On the other hand, if you already have a pretty solid routine, serums are great way to target general issues on a daily basis. Serums typically come in a dropper or pump form and come in many different types. I won’t go into every single type but the two types that are best for every day use are Vitamin C serums and Hyaluronic Acid serums. Vitamin C helps to brighten the skin, reduce dark spots and acne scars, and can also help protect the skin from sun exposure. Hyaluronic serums are my personal favorite because every one can benefit from a small dose of hydration. These serums plump and hydrate the skin and can also often revitalize tired or dull looking skin.

TO USE, apply 3 to 4 drops or 1 to 2 pumps to the tips of your fingers. Rub your fingers together slightly to warm the product then gently press it into the skin. Pressing serums into the skin is the most effective wait to get the full use out of the product rather than massaging it into the skin. Allow your serum to soak into the skin for 3-5 minutes. This would be a great time to use your jade roller if you have one! Hydrating serums can be applied every morning and night. Exfoliating serums like Salicylic acid and Malic Acid serums are best applied at night to prevent leaving the skin vulnerable to sun exposure.

Moisturizer

These last two steps are ones that can often be over looked but are key in maintaining skin safety. The purpose of moisturizer is to keep the skin hydrated, smooth, and protected. Moisturizer provides a barrier to keep all unnecessary pollutants out of the skin.

TO USE, apply a nickel-sized amount of moisturizer to the fingertips and work product into the face and neck in an upward motion. Moisturizing the neck can help prevent sagging and wrinkles. This step should be repeated both morning and night every single day. Regardless of skin type, it is very important not to skip this step even if you think you don’t need moisturizer. Lack of moisture on the skin can result in and imbalance and cause dehydrated skin that’s more susceptible to breakouts.

Protection with SPF

The last steps deals with protecting the skin with SPF. SPF protects our skin from harmful UV rays that can lead to sun damage, skin cancer, burns, and premature aging. Sun Exposure is the number one cause of premature aging. It’s important to remember that the number on the bottle of SPF does NOT represent the hours you can stay in the sun without getting burnt. Sticking with an SPF of 30 is safest for all skin types and you should reapply every two to three hours. Sunscreen should be worn every day, even in cloudy weather. If it’s easier, combine the last two steps and find a tinted moisturizer that contains and SPF of 30.

Beautycounter Countersun SPF

If you’re new to this, I’m sure it can seem pretty overwhelming. Try writing the steps out on a sticky note and placing it on your bathroom mirror. This will not only help keep track of what order to apply products, but also help you remember to stick to your routine every day.

It’s important to remember that when starting this routine you remember the 30-day rules.

1.  It takes 30 days to see the results of new products. Rome wasn’t built in a day; if you start using a product and notice your skin isn’t getting any better, give it some time. Most products work by first purging your skin of toxins which can lead to a few breakouts. If after 30 days it isn’t getting any better, then it’s time to make a switch.

2.  It takes 30 days to form a habit. The only way you’re going to see a real result is if you stay committed to keeping a consistent routine. Set alarms; leave yourself sticky notes, what ever you can do to help stick to your routine.

Flawless skin isn’t something that happens over night. Good skin takes time and commitment. Skin care is like working out; there is no easy way out or magic pill or serum. If you put in the time and effort, you’ll be amazed at the results.   

Have more questions? Something I missed? Go ahead and contact me! I’d love to talk with you one on one.