Building Your Routine: Picking Your Products
By now you should have a pretty good idea which of the five major skin types you have. If you are still unsure, message me for a quick consultation or read the previous article, “Building a Routine Part 1: How to do an At-Home Skin Analysis”. We’ve also maybe discovered a few skin conditions or issues we’d like to address including; sensitive skin, dehydration, and discoloration.
Now it’s time for the fun part…
Shopping!
In this segment we’ll be deciding which products to buy, ingredients to look for, and some things to stay away from depending on your skin type.
Before we begin, here are some things to consider:
Some products are not for everyone; something that works for someone else may not work for you.
No routine or product is permanent; our skin is constantly changing. It is smart to change up your routine every couple of months to keep it fresh.
Always consult a dermatologist first if you have any extreme conditions or sensitivities.
DRY SKIN
Dry skin occurs when there is an inadequate level of sebum or oil production. Sebum is what protects our skin from infection and environmental irritants by creating what is called the hydro-lipid barrier when mixed with sweat. When dealing with dry skin, we want our main goal to be increasing the level of oil production and in turn creating a stronger barrier. Therefore the products we want to look for are going to be those with natural oils. Look for milk or crème based cleansers, gentle chemical exfoliants with Alpha Hydroxy Acids or AHA’s like glycolic and lactic acid. Look for alcohol free toners, and richer and thicker moisturizers. Always make sure you look at the ingredient list, especially in targeted treatments like masks and serums. In masks, look for ones containing rose, chamomile, or orange blossom. With serums, hyaluronic serums are great serum for repairing your hydro-lipid barrier. The term “oil” can often be scary due to the fear of clogging your pores but there are some lighter oils that work. Safflower and Jojoba oil are great lightweight oils that will soothe your dry skin without breaking you out. In general, when looking for products for dry skin look for gentle and moisturizing products. Dryness can often also cause thinning of the skin, which can be easily damaged with improper product use.
Some Products to Try:
Beautycounter’s Nourishing Cream Cleanser
CosRx’s Hyaluronic Acid Hydra Power Essence
OILY/ACNEIC
Oily skin can often be susceptible to breakouts and clogged pores. If this is your skin type, the goal is to return skin to a more matte finish without stripping the skin of too much oil. Stay away from products with alcohols. Although drying out the skin may seem like a great idea at the time, alcohols can actually strip your skin of all the oil it actually needs. This can lead to even more oil production in the end. Instead, try gel or foaming cleansers to help break down dirt residing in the pores. Look for an exfoliant with a Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) like salicylic acid that, unlike other acids, will penetrate into the pores and give a deeper clean. For a good toner, find an alcohol free toner with Witch Hazel to help keep the skin balanced. This will get your skins pH back to where it should be and will replenish any necessary moisture lost during cleansing. For targeted treatments, look for products with Neroli or Tea Tree. Neroli and Tea Tree act as antibacterial ingredients and will help soak up any excess oil while also preventing further breakouts. Don’t forget to moisturize! Oil-free or gel moisturizers are a good go-to if you prefer the lightweight feel without a greasy finish. Worried about applying a greasy SPF afterwards? Just look for a moisturizer with SPF included. These products are typically less rich and greasy in texture without comprising your skins’ safety.
Some Products to Try:
Juice Beauty’s Blemish Clearing Cleanser
Andalou Natural’s Acai+Komucha Oil-Free Moisturizer**
Aveda’s Deep Cleansing Clay Mask
Origin’s A Perfect World SPF 40 Age- Defense Moisturizer
COMBINATION
When dealing with combination type skin, you want to treat each area of the skin separately rather than as a whole. Combination skin occurs when some areas appear dry like the forehead where others appear to be oily and more prone to breakouts. Instead of treating this as one skin type, it is important to focus on what it really is; a combination of skin types. Use gel based cleansers that include hydrating properties but also work deep into the pores. A proper toner that includes hydrating and soothing properties is very important when dealing with combination skin because not only will it hydrate and balance out dryness but also helps to eliminate shine. When it comes to dealing with exfoliants, the use of both AHA’s and BHA’s can actually be beneficial. Glycolic and Lactic acids will help hydrate, promote cell turnover and also nourish the skin. Salicylic acids will assist in cleaning out clogged pores and Malic acids will help even out the overall tone of your skin. Use serums with Glycolic and Lactic acids during the day and Salicylic and Malic acids at night. As for moisturizers, stick to a lightweight lotion. If you feel like at times you’re more dry, switch to a gel moisturizer to keep your skin hydrated.
Some Products to Try:
Thayers Alcohol-Free Witch Hazel Facial Toner
Peach and Lily’s Glass Skin Refining Serum
Drunk Elephant’s Beste No. 9Jelly Cleanser**
MATURED
Similar to dry, the main focus when handling matured skin is to increase hydration as well as firming or tightening any loose skin. When looking for “anti-aging” products, look for similar types to those for dry skin; crème cleansers, gentle toners, rich moisturizers, and hydrating serums and facial oils. In addition to these product types, you’ll also want to be on the look out for specific ingredients that will aid in diminishing wrinkles and promoting elasticity. Ingredients like caffeine and green tea will help to wake up the skin while vitamin A (Retinols) will increase elasticity and firmness. Vitamin C will help increase collagen production while simultaneously brightening any discoloration from sun damage or age spots. Another great ingredient for mature skin is blueberry powder. Blueberry powder is rich in antioxidants and can help the skin appear supple and decrease the appearance of fine lines. Finally, products with pomegranates will plump the skin while helping it hold on to collagen.
Some Products to Try:
Juice Beauty’s Green Apple Brightening Gel Cleanser
100% Pure’s Mult-Vitamin + Antioxidants Potent PM Serum**
Beautycounter’s Overnight Resurfacing Peel
Ayurveda’s iYURA Kesaradi Oil**
SENSITIVE
Although sensitive skin is more of a skin condition rather than a skin type, there are still certain products that are better to use than others. Try crème or milky cleansers and be careful not to over exfoliate. If exfoliating use a gentle AHA or manual exfoliant like dry brushing, and be sure to only exfoliate 1-2 times a week. Ingredients like chamomile and eucalyptus have anti-inflammatory properties and will help soothe redness associated with sensitive skin. Not everyone has the same degree of sensitivity. For severe sensitivity, make sure to visit your doctor or dermatologist first before using with any products.
Some Products to Try:
Beautycounter’s Cleansing Balm
Origins’ Hello, Calm Relaxing & Hydrating Face Mask
Aveda’s Tulasara Radiant Facial Dry Brush
I have personally used many of these products and vouch for them. Ones I haven’t personally used have come highly recommended to me by friends and colleagues. Not all of the products for any given skin type will work for you, part of building a skin care regimen is deciding for yourself what products work best for you. The goal of this article is to inform you about the various product types that are out there and which of these might work for you. Next week, we will build our skin care routines. We’ll go over when to use which products, the importance of each in your routine and how often/how much of each to use. After you’ve developed your routine, you can begin taking real steps to improving your skin health.
**Products I have not personally tried, but have been tried by friends or family with visible results.